Instead of editing HTML by hand, why not let the browser do it for you? I came up with an interesting idea -- to use a ContentEditable element on a webpage as an HTML editor. Not quite Dreamweaver, but it works!
It's also a useful way to convert from RTF to HTML. Just open the RTF in WordPad, and copy and paste.
Bold/italic/underline, fonts, colors, indentation, and even tables(!) are supported. Click here to try it.
Here's what it looks like,